Dermatological properties of Cosmos caudatus Kunth for photoprotection, anti-aging, and skin brightening applications
Keywords:
Anti-aging, Cosmos caudatus, cosmeceuticals, photoprotection, skin brightening
Abstract
Cosmos caudatus Kunth, a tropical medicinal herb traditionally used across Southeast Asia, has emerged as a promising botanical ingredient for cosmeceutical applications. This narrative review systematically synthesizes current evidence on its dermatological properties through comprehensive literature search of Scopus and PubMed databases (2015-2025), yielding 25 studies meeting inclusion criteria for skin-relevant bioactivities. Phytochemical characterization consistently identifies flavonoid glycosides, particularly quercetin derivatives (quercitrin, isoquercitrin, rutin), as major bioactive constituents responsible for multifaceted skin benefits. In vitro studies demonstrate potent antioxidant activity (IC₅₀ 17.77-163.6 μg/mL in DPPH assay), significant inhibition of collagenase, elastase, and matrix metalloproteinases underlying anti-aging effects, and superior tyrosinase inhibition (IC₅₀ 6.803 μg/mL) for skin brightening. Photoprotective capacity exhibits remarkable formulation-dependent enhancement, progressing from minimal protection in raw extracts (SPF 3.26) to ultra-protection in optimized cream formulations (SPF 45.59). Advanced delivery systems including nanotechnology (particle size 160-176 nm) and microencapsulation (79.67% flavonoid retention) further enhance stability and bioavailability. Additional antimicrobial activity against Propionibacterium acnes positions C. caudatus uniquely for acne-hyperpigmentation management. Despite robust in vitro evidence, clinical validation through human trials remains a critical research priority. This review establishes C. caudatus as a scientifically validated, multifunctional botanical ingredient with substantial commercial potential in the natural cosmeceutical market.
References
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6. Ashar NA, Riyaningrum W. Description of Knowledge Level of Prevention of Skin Hyperpigmentation in Adolescents. PSHMS. 2022;3:55-61. doi:10.30595/pshms.v3i.620
7. Roren RS, Mario Christopher P, Novia Jayadi N. Photoprotection Knowledge and Photoprotective Behavior of University Students: A Cross-sectional Study in Indonesia. International Journal of Dermatology and Venereology. 2022;5(3):140-148. doi:10.1097/JD9.0000000000000245
8. Banik B, Borkotoky S, Das MK. Chapter 14 - Biosynthesized colloidal metallic nanoparticles-based nanocosmetic formulations. In: Das MK, ed. Nanocosmeceuticals. Academic Press; 2022:369-388. doi:10.1016/B978-0-323-91077-4.00020-X
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11. Yadav M, Mohite A, Sankpal S, Shahi S. The Science of Shielding: Evaluating Sunscreen Safety and Efficacy. International Journal Of Pharmaceutical Sciences. 2025;3(4). doi:10.5281/ZENODO.15165382
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14. Chen Y, Du J, Wang S, et al. A retrospective analysis of unprotected ultraviolet tolerance and influencing factors in 1036 participants evaluating the efficacy of cosmetic sunscreen products. Journal of Dermatologic Science and Cosmetic Technology. 2025;2(2):100086. doi:10.1016/j.jdsct.2025.100086
15. Saryanti D, Rahmawati AN, Utami N, Atmaja AP. Aktivitas Tabir Surya Fraksi Daun Murbei (Morus alba L) Berdasarkan Nilai Sun Protection Factor (SPF). Jurnal Farmamedika (Pharmamedica Journal). 2025;1(1). doi:https://doi.org/10.47219/ath.v10i1.354
16. Ince FA, Nayar JC, Wong AL, et al. Uncovering the efficacy of a natural homemade sunscreen in protection from ultraviolet radiation. Photochem Photobiol Sci. 2025;24(6):1017-1029. doi:10.1007/s43630-025-00742-7
17. Abuelella KE, Gaid SN, Khattab MA, Rashwan KO, Sheta NM. Photoprotective efficacy of dibenzalacetone in sunscreen formulations: Physicochemical properties, synthesis, characterization, potential applications in sunscreen and biological activities. Intern J of Cosmetic Sci. Published online July 10, 2025:ics.70002. doi:10.1111/ics.70002
18. Sutawane RM, Kedar T, Darekar AB, Sonawne M. Formulation And Evaluation Of Herbal Sunscreen: An Assessment Towards Skin Protection From Ultraviolet Radiation. IJRTI. 2025;10(4).
19. Sullivan M, Gonzalez OC, Lipsky Z, Panchal A, Jensen J. Frontiers in Topical Photoprotection. Cosmetics. 2025;12(3):96. doi:10.3390/cosmetics12030096
20. Brar G, Dhaliwal A, Brar AS, et al. A Comprehensive Review of the Role of UV Radiation in Photoaging Processes Between Different Types of Skin. Cureus. 2025;17(3). doi:10.7759/cureus.81109
21. Gao Q, Xu C, Tan M, et al. Hydrogel‐Based Therapies for Photoaging: Current Advances and Future Perspectives. J of Cosmetic Dermatology. 2025;24(6):e70295. doi:10.1111/jocd.70295
22. Zhao C, Wu S, Wang H. Medicinal Plant Extracts Targeting UV-Induced Skin Damage: Molecular Mechanisms and Therapeutic Potential. IJMS. 2025;26(5):2278. doi:10.3390/ijms26052278
23. Hastiningsih MC. The Role Of Natural Antioxidants In Delaying Premature Skin Aging Process. 2025;16(01).
24. Fraga NDC, Pinheiro BDLC, Mello LF, et al. The Importance Of Photoprotection In Preventing Signs Of Skin Ageing And Caring For Skin Health. ISJHR. 2025;4(1):2-20. doi:10.56238/isevjhv4n1-001
25. Hussen NHA, Abdulla SK, Ali NM, Ahmed VA, Hasan AH, Qadir EE. Role of antioxidants in skin aging and the molecular mechanism of ROS: A comprehensive review. Aspects of Molecular Medicine. 2025;5:100063. doi:10.1016/j.amolm.2025.100063
26. Ivarsson J, Brieva P, Choudhary H, Valacchi G. Evaluating the Effect of Fresh and Aged Antioxidant Formulations in Skin Protection Against UV Damage. Cosmetics. 2025;12(4):166. doi:10.3390/cosmetics12040166
27. Ikeda Y, Nasu M, Bruxer JY, et al. Photoprotective, Antioxidant and Anti‐Inflammatory Effects of Aged Punica granatum Extract: In Vitro and In Vivo Insights. Food Science & Nutrition. 2025;13(8):e70631. doi:10.1002/fsn3.70631
28. Sartika D, Rusip G, Chiuman L. A Literature Review on Antioxidant Potential of Yellow Pumpkin Seed Extract in Skin Photoaging. Intisari Sains Medis. 2025;16(2):574-577. doi:10.15562/ism.v16i2.2391
29. Aryan J. Navigating The Challenges And Controversies In Sunscreen: A Review. JPTCP. Published online December 12, 2024:986-997. doi:10.53555/crgtsp35
30. Surushe AS. Plant-Based Protection: A Review On Herbal Sunscreens. World Journal of Pharmaceutical Science and Research. 2025;4(2):1084-1091. doi:10.5281/ZENODO.15365037
31. Rafi M, Hayati F, Umar A, Septaningsih D, ... LC-HRMS-based metabolomics to evaluate the phytochemical profile and antioxidant capacity of Cosmos caudatus with different extraction methods and solvents. Arabian Journal of Chemistry. 2023;(Query date: 2025-07-28 10:25:45). https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1878535223005270
32. Abidin Z, Razak R. Analisis Kandungan Flavonoid Ekstrak Etanol Daun Kenikir (Cosmos caudatus). Makassar Pharmaceutical Science Journal. 2024;1:347-357.
33. Afifah PMR, Permata BR, Wardani TS. Penetapan Kadar Flavonod Total Dan Uji Aktivitas Antioksidan Ekstrak Etanol Daun Kenikir (Cosmos Caudatus K.) Menggunakan Metode ABTS. Jurnal Ilmiah Farmasi. 2023;12. doi:https://doi.org/10.30591/pjif.v12i3.5584
34. Ahda M, Jaswir I, Khatib A, Ahmed QU, Syed-Mohamad SM. A review on Cosmos caudatus as A potential medicinal plant based on pharmacognosy, phytochemistry, and pharmacological activities. International Journal of Food Properties. 2023;26(1):344-358. doi:10.1080/10942912.2022.2158862
35. Aminu NR, Pali A, Hartini S. Potensi Kenikir (Cosmos caudatus) Sebagai Larvasida Nyamuk Aedes Aegypti Instar IV. JBT. 2020;20(1):16-21. doi:10.29303/jbt.v20i1.1489
36. Astuti SW, Sasmito E. Aktivitas Antioksidan Ekstrak Etanol 50% dan 70% Daun Kenikir (Cosmos Caudatus Kunth) Dengan Metode DPPH (2,2 Diphenyl-1 Picrylhydrazyl). JCS. 2024;3(9):4321-4338. doi:10.59188/jcs.v3i9.978
37. Cheng SH, Barakatun-Nisak MY, Anthony J, Ismail A. Potential medicinal benefits of Cosmos caudatus (Ulam Raja): A scoping review. J Res Med Sci. 2015;20(10):1000. doi:10.4103/1735-1995.172796
38. Yusoff MH, Salleh MSH, Shafie MH. Isolation and characterization of antioxidant and anti-tyrosinase activities of Cosmos caudatus leaf polysaccharides using microwave-assisted extraction. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules. 2025;311:144154. doi:10.1016/j.ijbiomac.2025.144154
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Published
2025-12-31
How to Cite
Husnayanti, A., Sugiyanto, Kintoko, & Nurhayati. (2025). Dermatological properties of Cosmos caudatus Kunth for photoprotection, anti-aging, and skin brightening applications. Pharmacy Reports, 5(2), 114. https://doi.org/10.51511/pr.114
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Articles
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This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.
